My Rain Barrels
I use eight rain barrels
to collect water for use in watering outdoor plants, our garden and refilling
two birdbaths. In the winter, I empty the barrels, and rain water is
drained out into the yard. This system conserves tap water and saves
energy that would be spent purifying and transporting drinking-quality
water just to pour on ornamental plants!
These barrels were originally used to ship olives to the US from Spain, so
using them as rain barrels means they do not need to be thrown away or recycled.
Photos of my barrels for the impatient
Note that I have connected them in such a way that I can fill all
of them via one barrel, and drain all of them from one hose outlet. I
do not have to switch hoses around each time I empty a barrel.
arrangement of just one barrel
three barrels linked together (180 gallons capacity)
five barrels linked together (300 gallons worth)
plumbing on the outlet barrel of a set. See plumbing section for the necessary hardware
plumbing on a middle barrel of a set
plumbing on the end barrel of a set
More Information:
- Maryland Green Building Program's
Build a Simple Rain Barrel
instructions include getting cheap ($5) plastic 55 gallon drums from the
Pepsi Bottling Company in Baltimore. (Contact: Charlie Dickerson, 410-366-3500 for more information.)
- The Texas Guide To Rainwater Harvesting has
excellent information for those who want to store serious amounts of
water. Or who want to store water fit for drinking. It is a 66 page (650
kilobytes) Acrobat file.
- The
Baltimore Sun has a drought section
.
- The Great American Rain Barrel company (295 Maverick St., East Boston,
MA 02128, call 800-251-2352 or email
BOSolives@aol.com
- A great place to see a large selection of rain barrel designs is at
http://composters.com/docs/rainbarrels.html
- The California Urban Water Conservation Council has a heck of a good
web site. All kinds of advice for saving water around the house!!! In addition
to Rain Harvesting, they also have information on greywater systems.
Here is their site
- The City of Bremerton, Washington has a
set of instructions
for making
a rain barrel. There are some good photos and diagrams here.
The Problems - Too Much and Too Little Water:
- Drought - The Baltimore area has had several years of drought
starting in 1999. The declared water emergency
restrictions meant that I had little or no water for my shrubs,
trees and garden. The drought of fall 2001 into spring 2002 was severe.
- Wet basement - During prolonged heavy rains, water entered
two sides of my basement. We added soil to the outside foundation wall,
but it was still necessary to drain the gutters with black or white
plastic pipes laid out into the yard away from the house. These were
unsightly and made mowing a pain.
- Air conditioner condensation - We had two central air conditioners
installed in August 1999. The condensation water drain pipes were placed right
next to the basement wall, where we already had water problems! So
I wanted to extend their endpoints away from the house. Several gallons of
condensation are produced each day during hot and humid weather by each
air conditioner. This really adds up if you don't just dump it on the ground!
The Solution:
I bought two sixty gallon
plastic rain barrels from Real Goods
(and then six more from the actual manufacturer, the Great American Rain Barrel
Company)
and placed them on the side of the house, one set next to each of the two main
rain gutter downspouts. I describe my complete solution below, but you do NOT
have to go to the same extent as I did to make good use of the barrels.
Each barrel has a removable lid, two overflow drainage holes, built-in
handles, and a faucet spigot with on/off lever. As you can see from my
photos, I connected my barrels with metal fittings and garden hose.
Getting Water IN:
- I used clear plastic tubing (from Home Depot) to run the air
conditioner condensation water into the barrels.
- I cut window screen material into circles and placed them on top
of the rain barrel lid to keep leaves and mosquitoes out of the quarter
inch drain holes in the lid. I also throw a
floating anti-mosquito
larvicide dunk in every other month. This contains a bacteria
(Bacillus thuringiensis (subspecies israelensis))
which kills mosquito larvae without man-made pesticides. (Mine were made in
Baltimore by
Summit Chemical Co, 7657 Canton Center Cr, Baltimore MD 21224.
See this page or
this page or
this page or
this other page for fascinating descriptions of Bt and how it kills those larvae DEAD by eating holes in their stomachs!)
- I dug a trench and installed 4 inch diameter PVC plastic sewage drain
pipe (also from Home Depot) along the side of house. There are upright pipes
coming up from the ground to connect to the downspouts. A short length of
flexible plastic gutter allows me to choose whether rain water should go
into the rain barrel or down into the drain pipe.
- To prevent the barrels from overflowing, I used 3/4 inch diameter clear
plastic tubing to run from two overflow elbows located at the very top of
the rain barrel over into the drainage pipe. The top of the vertical drain
pipe has a Y shaped connector. One end of the Y gets overflow tubing,
the other accepts the flexible gutter hose when water is not being
collected.
- The openings of the Y drain fitting are covered with used pantyhose
to keep leaves and insects out of the drain system.
Getting Water OUT:
It is very handy that my house is on a gentle slope. So gravity helps
me get water out of the rain barrels and down to the plants I want to
water.
- I connect a normal hose to the faucet and let gravity drain
the water downhill to the garden. This works well for watering
plants located close together (via a soaker hose) or for deep watering
trees or shrubs.
- Put a nozzle or turn-off valve on the end of your hose so you can
turn off the flow without having to go all of the way back to the rain
barrel.
- I often use one or two plastic buckets to carry water.
This is the best way to replace birdbath water, something I do
every three or four days to prevent mosquitos from breeding. I don't
mind using the bucket approach so often because I dislike having to
drag a hose around the yard and coiling it up when I'm done. And I can
water specific plants quickly.
- I have also hooked up a small electric submersible pump, originally
used in a decorative water fountain, to move more water, move it uphill,
or provide a higher pressure than gravity feed will allow. (Home Depot
sells these kind of pumps.
Little Giant is a popular
brand. Think about the height you want to pump water before buying one!
Water pumps can only push water so high (above the source). Their flow rate
(in gallons per hour) drops as you increase the output height, and they just
fail to push water above a certain height. This varies from pump to pump.)
Plumbing Details:
These particular barrels come with several holes drilled and threaded for
you.
There are two one-half inch (0.50") holes where one can place the spigot;
one half-way up the barrel and one just above the bottom. There are two
three-quarters inch (0.75") diameter holes near the top of the barrel for
overflow connections. One key piece of knowledge I can pass along to you
is that the holes use pipe threads. The threads on metal pipes are different
from those on garden hoses! (Hose thread is more course.) Keep this in mind
as you try to connect things together!
I wanted all of my barrels to act as one large container -- I did not want
to have to move my hose from one barrel to the other to drain them, nor
did I want to have to manually direct incoming rain. One can easily solve
the latter problem by using the overflow connections at the top of the barrel
to link barrels together. However, you have to go to the bottom of the barrel
to remove water. They key to my arrangement was realizing that water could
use the same connection pipe to both fill and drain. Instead of filling up
one barrel at a time, then overflowing into the next barrel in line, my
scheme results in all of the barrels filling and draining at the same rate.
I chose to use metal fittings for durability and maximum water flow. The
plastic spigots provided with the barrels had only about a 0.25" hole for
water to flow through. I know this because the plastic spigot was made in
two parts, one of which will detach from the other if you pull on a hose
too hard. When they come apart you can see how small the hole is. Lastly,
the plastic spigot only had an on/off setting -- so you couldn't vary the
amount of water flow. Of course, you could do that downstream with another
fitting, but the two previous reasons were good enough to me to switch.
Each
barrel has its own valve
so I can keep water in or out while I work on other parts of the system. I
used pipe thread tape to try to reduce leaks. You definitely need pipe clamps
to prevent leaks if you use old garden hose to connect barrels together. I
chose not to try to use metal or PVC piping between barrels because I didn't
want to have to cut pipes to just the right length for the distance between
every two specific barrels. Garden hose is flexible. And cheap. And easy to
replace if, say, an early freeze catches me with water in the pipes (although
I have to say that I've had 1/2 to 3/4 full barrels freeze on me during
short cold spells without any problems!!!) I used standard 5/8" diameter garden hose.
All of the barrels have the same initial components. Going from the
barrel outwards, the parts are:
- one 0.50" diameter "close" nipple (a very short (about 2" long) threaded pipe)
- one valve with two female 0.50" openings (This is NOT a hose bib -- it has
PIPE threads, not HOSE threads!!!)
- one 0.50" diameter close nipple (a very short (about 2" long) threaded pipe)
End barrel plumbing hardware (click for photo)
The first barrel in a set has the simplest plumbing. It is comprised of
- the standard nipple-valve-nipple starting pieces,
- one plastic elbow adapter, which features one female 0.50" diameter
opening and one ridged male nozzle, and
- one hose clamp.
Middle barrel plumbing hardware (click for photo)
The middle barrels in a set have the following plumbing. Going from the
barrel outwards, the parts are:
- the standard nipple-valve-nipple starting pieces,
- one plastic tee-shaped adapter with one female 0.50" diameter opening and
two ridged male hose nozzles, and
- two hose clamps.
Outlet barrel plumbing hardware (click for photo)
This is the most complicated fixture. It includes:
- the standard nipple-valve-nipple starting pieces,
- one metal tee adapter with three female 0.50" diameter openings,
- two 0.50" close nipples,
- one plastic ridged hose nozzle with a 0.50" female opening, and
- one hose bib with female 0.50" pipe threads on one side and a male hose
fitting on the other.
Jeffrey Tunison